SAFE TECH HARNESS SAFER BY DESIGN
• Engineered to provide every possible extra margin of safety
• Each component has been designed for maximum strength without excessive weight or bulk.
• All structural systems of the harness have been made as redundant and error-proof as possible.
• Wherever possible, each component is engineered to withstand a load of 2250 lbf (10 kN). This is typically the maximum impact force rating of a modern climbing rope.
- 2250 lbf (10 kN) Spectra gear loops
- 3600 lbf (16 kN) Spectra rope locator
- 3600 lbf (16 kN) rear haul loop
- 1500 lbf (6.6 kN) leg loop elastics
• Non-directional tie-in points maintain their strength even if the rope is routed incorrectly.
• Waist belt webbing shows color pattern change when correctly double-passed
• Waist buckle shows "DANGER" if not correctly double passed
• If you forget to double-pass the waist buckle, it still holds 2250 lbf (10 kN) single-passed.
• The patented 3-D system adjusts rise length and leg size to keep you upright and in-balance in a fall (except Sport).
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A LITTLE BETA
El Potrero Chico is an alpine enviroment and must be treated like one. Rock Fall is a constant DANGER!
IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to constant rain fall during December 2006 and blasting of the mine near by. Rock fall has been occuring more than ever with these two factors caution is highly advisable.
ALWAYS wear a helmet for long routes or just hanging out at the bottom of a route, use the brain bucket.
NEVER climb underneath another party that is already on a route. Due to rock fall in the Potrero, could result in injury or death to the party below.
YELL ROCK! if you knock off or drop something from a route no matter how small or big it may be.
IT'S BEST to limit your ascent party to 2 people, a 3 person team may decrease the chances of a summit.
CLIP YOUR PACK to the anchors of the first pitch.
This will let other parties know the route is occupied and will keep your gear from getting stolen.
BE PREPARED weather can change rapidly, take plenty of water, food, windshell, and a headlamp.
CLOTHING it can be windy or cold higher up layer for those situations you can always ditch clothing on pitches.
RADIOS made by motorola are often used by climbers to communicate.
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ROPES/BOLTING:
Majority of the routes in the Potrero are 30 meters-100ft long. Others are 50 meters long and require two ropes for decending down. The ideal route and the consensus for route setting is 30 meter pitches. This provides elimination of two ropes and the use of a 70 meter rope. Some climbers have been known to double up 30 meter pitches with a full 70 meter rope.
BETA FOR BELAYING AND LOWERING OFF ROUTES
Remember to tie a knot at the other end of your rope when toproping. This is a major cause of injury and accidents in the Potrero, especialy at the mota wall.
TIE the loose ends of your ropes together when decending a route. This will prevent rapping off the ends of your rope.
BOLTING is permitted with the use of quality bolts and hangers. Route setting can be difficult due to the amount of vegetation on the walls. Find lines with less vegetation and solid rock, this will ease your time of route setting.
Rawl bolts 5 piece 1/2 x 3 3/4 are the norm
Metolius Hangers
Fixe ring anchors are excellent for belay stations
Please aviod grid bolting (bolting routes 3-8 feet from each other)
Bolt and climb safe
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GEAR/EQUIPMENT:
As you see in the photo above 16-20 quick draws is your ticket for climbing at the Potrero. Hydration packs are ideal for the long and free routes.
RECOMMENDED CLIMBING GEAR
70 meter rope 9.5mm-10mm duodess, I recommend a dry rope due to the possibilty of getting caught in a rain storm. Also bring an additional rope for routes that require two ropes for getting down. A 70 meter rope can get you down on most routes. SPIRES I would trail a 60 meter rope.
Helmets are highly recommended
16-20 Quick draws
Sun screen-Sun protection
Lip balm-due to the dryness of the enviroment
GU or Power Gel for energy replenishment
Gatorade or Poweraide for Hydration packs
Small rescue whistle you can wear around your neck
Petzl Grigri or Metolius BRD (carry atleast two belay devices)
Extra locking carabiners
Slings
Head lamps-with fresh batteries
Money for cervezas after climbing
A DOWN JACKET is reaily nice for those cold days at the Potrero. During my last trip eight out of ten people were wearing down jackets and the ones who didn't wish they had one.
SLEEPING BAGS: I recommend a zero or 20 degree bag for the winter months, again it all depends on the person.
ROCK FALL: Continues at various walls and areas use caution.
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